Ahhhh. Forget about work, forget about stress. Think about good weather, golden rock, and great climbing. Lose yourself in the ambience. You're at Arapiles now.

Arapiles is a crag like no other. This is not hard-core climbing (though there are climbs here as hard as any in the world). This is not hair-raising multi-pitch in intimidating surrounds (though climbs here can feel pretty 'out there'). No - as unlikely as it may sound in the context of rock climbing, Arapiles climbing is nothing less than mellow.

Don't get me wrong - this is not a bad thing. In fact, it's one of the reasons why Araps ranks with the best places I've ever climbed at. It's a place where you can relax, even though climbing is inherently unnerving. Here you can spend a whole day on the rock, without too much concern about spending the whole night, too. And when you get down, the best campsite in the world awaits...

The Pines, that is. You can stay elsewhere and still enjoy Arapiles, but why would you? This quintessential climbers' hangout always has a contingent of semi-permanent residents, as well as visitors from around the world. The cliffs loom up close. You can sit on the grass, listen to belay calls echoing from wall to wall, and scope out climbs you've yet to do. The timeless presence of the rock starts to seep into your soul, and it's a soothing feeling indeed. You won't want to leave.

On my first visit here, we managed a good sampling of the various areas at Arapiles. That I was able to take my sister (who'd never climbed outside before) on five multi-pitch climbs without any dramas, speaks volumes for the accessibility and friendliness of this crag. From right to left along the cliffs, we climbed:

Exodus (36m 6), on Mitre Rock. A great first climb, and a welcome return for me after a year virtually without climbing. The first few minutes felt hard, but then I remembered the joy of getting off the ground, and it was plain sailing. This climb set the trend for the week - steep, good protection, and great holds.

Arachnus (105m 9), on the Watchtower. What a way to start our trip! The archetypal Arapiles grade 9 climb - steep, exposed and juggy. Four pitches of continuous face climbing, with the endless fields of the Wimmera revealing themselves as you ascend. The Watchtower is quite a spectacular venue, and this climb goes straight up the middle. Absolutely superb. You'd better like heights!

The Shroud (105m 10), on the Pharos. A wonderful adventure, with a true summit at the top. The climb is not particularly continuous, but instead you get a wide variety of moves in a wonderful setting. Particularly good are the chimney/stemming section on the third pitch, the unlikely step across to the main summit block, and the excellent free-hanging rappel to get back to the ground. This climb just beat out Arachnus as the highlight of our trip. (Once our rap ropes pulled, that is. :)

The Eighth (100m 9), on the Tiger Wall. A good climb, but not great. I think the massive Tiger Wall deserves better. The first pitch is long and fantastic, with an exit through a keyhole to the belay ledge. Look for the roadsign to be sure you're on route! The rest of the climb is a bit broken though, with steep sections and traverses. It finishes at Flinders Lane, and you get to slink through Ali Baba's cave before descending via Ali's.

Conifer Crack (75m 9), on the Organ Pipes. Two pitches, up an arete and then twin cracks. The crux is an interesting stemming move over a bulge on the first pitch - find the secret hold!

Clymnaestra Buttress (45m 9), at the Atridae. This route has a roof move which simply has no business being on a climb at this grade! On the second pitch you climb up and rightwards to a recessed ledge. The ledge ends at a roof on the right, and the aim is to get established on the twin cracks which run through it. You lean out over space, get in some good pro, and then try and figure out how it's done. The key? A fist jam in the left crack, and never a more solid fist jam will you find - more like a using your fist as a human chockstone, no effort required. But c'mon, a fist jam? On a 9? Please explain... I belayed right after the roof, so I could enjoy watching my sister struggle. (Just kidding, Bronwen.)

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