On the evening of our last day, I took a walk north, skirting the cliff. Mitre Rock cast its long shadow in the fading light, and the cliffs were quiet and still. Kangaroos grazed and cockatoos circled. The modern world, with all its bizarre priorities, seemed a lifetime away. Next day the spell would be broken, but for a while, things made sense, and a rare serenity settled on my soul.